Simply: Home Cooking

Just in time for the holidays!

Check out my review of The Cultural Revolution Cookbook, by Sasha Gong and Scott D. Seligman. Available now through your local independent bookseller for your favorite cook or for yourself!

Roasted Tomato (or Tomatillo) Salsa

This recipe provides a great way to use up the last of the season’s tomatoes—roasting them brings out the sweetness that might be lacking in tomatoes hurriedly picked in advance of the first frost. You can use your favorite chili pepper to achieve the amount of kick you prefer.

Delicious as a lowfat dip, dressing and accompaniment for Mexican dishes. But my favorite use is as part of a savory breakfast: serve hot on eggs (any style) with black beans, tortillas, some grated cheese, and a drizzle of cilantro sauce.

Makes approximately 1/2 c.

Ingredients:

• 1 pt cherry or smallish tomatoes, washed, stems removed
• 1-2 chili peppers (optional): jalapeño, serrano, aji, habañero...anything goes!
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled
• 2-4 T chopped fresh cilantro
• salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• sugar to taste (optional)
• lime juice, lemon juice, red wine vinegar, or rice vinegar to taste (optional)

Method:

1. Cut the tomatoes in 1/2 and arrange on a broiler pan, cut side up.
2. Cut the chili peppers in 1/2, remove the seeds for less heat, and arrange on the broiler pan, cut side down.
3. Put the garlic cloves on the broiler pan.
4. Broil just until the tops of the vegetables are barely blackened. Turn the garlic so both sides brown. You may have to remove some of the vegetables earlier and leave others to broil for longer.
5. Place the broiled tomatoes, garlic, and chili peppers in a food processor, and pulse until the salsa is the consistency you prefer—I like mine fully puréed, but you can leave it slightly chunky as well.
6. Season to taste with cilantro, salt, pepper, sugar, and citrus juice or vinegar—you may not need the sugar or acid at all.
7. Serve at room temperature.

Variations:

Also works great with tomatillos: remove the papery husk and rinse the tomatillos in a bowl of warm water before slicing and broiling.

Do ahead:

• The salsa will keep for up to 2 weeks in a tightly covered jar in the refrigerator.
• Also suitable for canning.

Download Roasted Tomato Salsa

Paying the farmer's asking price...and increasing the farmer's share

Rural SCALE recently released a study on the affordability of local food for the average consumer, collecting data from 24 farmers’ markets in 19 communities in 6 southeastern states. The study concludes that

Overall, farmers markets in the Southeast and Appalachia are highly competitive with mainstream supermarkets in their pricing on a range of commonly consumed foods, including produce, meats and eggs. (Emphasis in the original.)

Naturally, one might draw different conclusions from similar studies of other regions, but there are some interesting statistics (and generalizable conclusions?) about size of community and prices at farmers’ markets that sell to moderate- and low-income patrons, those who might believe that the local food movement has passed them by.

Then consider this graphic by the National Farmers Union: Farmer’s Share of Retail Food Dollar. I’m not so interested in the startling figures on processed foods (soft drinks, potato chips, bread) because few of the raw ingredients are actually supplied by a farmer. Far more disturbing are the figures on whole, minimally processed ingredients. Take the produce section of a conventional supermarket (think Safeway, Kroger, etc.), for example: farmers receive anywhere from 10.3 cents on the dollar for lettuce to 30 cents on the dollar for carrots.

Now think about buying this produce at a farmers’ market or directly from a farmer: if it’s true that the prices at the farmers’ market are comparable to those of the supermarket for comparable items, the farmer will suddenly have $4.59 (instead of $1.38) in his pocket for 5 pounds of carrots; $3.08 (instead of $0.27) for a pound of tomatoes, etc.

Buying local food at the farmers’ market certainly seems like a win-win for farmers and consumers.

Irene, farmers, loyalty, and gratitude

Having grown up in Vermont, I have been following the post-Irene news out of the state with horror. Pictures of washed out roads (difficult for someone to understand the gravity of that when there is no concept that it may be the ONLY road in and out of a town), flooded fields, crops laid waste. What can you do to help, if you're inclined to do so? There's the always-welcome local Red Cross donation, a number of tshirt companies are donating proceeds from sales (check out Vermont Clothing Company and the Vermont Strong Store), and not surprisingly, a number of benefit concerts and similar events sprang up - it's hard to keep Vermonters down for long! And I saw some truly original ideas floated by my Facebook friends: how about a produce "round-up" day at the farmers' markets, where buyers voluntarily round every purchase up to the next $5 or $10? But isn't there a bigger picture, one that will last beyond the news headlines and the desire to help in a time of need?

Vermont, of course, wasn't the only state affected. Grist.org had a brief roundup of news from farmers throughout the swath cut by Irene. And if the producer end of our food system has suffered, the consumer must also pay the price - literally! And how I dread hearing (most) people complain about the price of food....

I recently watched a series of short films by Nourish, and I was once again struck by a statistic mentioned: in the last 50 years, Americans have gone from spending 18% of our national income on food to spending 9.9% on food. (In same time period, we've gone from spending 5% of national income on health care to spending 16% on health care.) Yes, there are those who truly cannot spend more on food, but what about the vast majority of us, who can?

As someone who tries to buy local and sustainable food whenever possible and one who is fortunate enough to be able to pay the premium often demanded by organic, this recent crop devastation, coupled with what seems to be a weird growing season nationally, has given me a lot to ponder. My first thought about the affected farmers was, "I hope the majority of them run CSAs!" Those farmers who run CSAs (community supported agriculture programs) charge a flat fee per share at the beginning of the growing season, then provide an equal amount of produce to each shareholder throughout the harvest season. If the farm does well and the harvest is good, the consumer gets a bountiful share each week. If there is bad weather or a natural disaster, then the harvest is poor or nonexistent, and the consumer supplements the share with food sourced elsewhere. So in a sense, it's a gamble for the consumer, but how much less of a gamble for the farmer who produces our food? And in this age of disappearing small and mid-size farms, isn't it important for those of us who can afford it to stack the deck in the farmers' favor?

Now is the time to start thinking about next year's crops and signing on for a CSA with a local farmer - out of loyalty, and because we can. And now is also the time to start supporting measures in upcoming Farm Bill legislation that will help small and mid-size farmers with crop insurance for situations like the one caused by Irene.

The LocalHarvest blog has a wonderful post about eating locally in a poor season that was supposed to be the height of harvest bounty. Erin Barnett concludes,

Ultimately, the thing that supports this loyalty and flexibility and acceptance is a sense of gratitude. Things change when we find the space within ourselves to feel thankful for what the land is providing, even, and perhaps especially, in challenging seasons.

QUICK cucumber pickles

This recipe is based on one from my mother—it’s a quick concoction with Russian origins and is perfect for the midsummer season when cucumbers are plentiful. They’re technically a pickle to be eaten on the side of a meal, but they are also wonderful served mixed into a salad an as hors d’oeuvre.

Makes approximately 1 pint.

Ingredients:

• 3-4 medium cucumbers, peeled
• 2 tsp salt, preferably not iodized
• 1 T vinegar—white, white balsamic, rice wine or apple cider
• 2-4 cloves garlic, cut in half if large
• 1 T fresh dill, chopped, or 1/2 tsp dry

Method:

1. Cut the cucumbers into slices (1/4-1/2” thick) or spears (3-4” long). The thinner you cut them, the less time the “pickles” will need to rest.
2. Pack the cucumbers into a glass jar with a tight lid, then add the remaining ingredients to the jar.
3. Cover the jar tightly and gently tip it back and forth, up and down.
4. Refrigerate 2-4 hours before serving, occasionally tipping the jar gently. The cucumbers will release a lot of liquid, which should be strained off before serving.
5. Serve cold or at room temperature.

Variations:

• Depending on the meal you’re serving, you can vary the herb used—basil gives a Mediterranean flair, cilantro a Mexican one, etc.
• Just before serving, stir in a little yogurt or sour cream for a richer taste and a calcium boost.
• Mix into potato or tuna salad for an added crunch.

Do ahead:

• The cucumbers are tastiest the day they are made, but they can keep up to a week in the refrigerator. They will continue to release water and become less crisp as time goes on.

Download Quick Cucumber Pickles

Good news on the local food front

Tired of the bad news on food? Can't get your head around 36 million pounds of salmonella-tainted ground turkey (not to mention the tons of packaging that went to waste on 36 million pounds of salmonella-tainted ground turkey)?

There IS good news on the local/regional food front, and you can find it in "Market Forces," a report produced by the Union of Concerned Scientists. If you don't want to plow through the entire report, a quick browse of the executive summary is well worth a few minutes of your time.

USDA map of farmers' markets in the 50 United States

For more discussion on why buying local makes sense, check out "Buying Local Makes Economic Sense."

Fava Beans...with or without a nice chianti

Up until a few years ago, my only contact with fava beans had been in Middle Eastern restaurants and in Hannibal Lecter's famous line from Silence of the Lambs. Then a vendor at the Torrance Farmers Market introduced me to them in their unshelled form - long, fat, glistening green pods full of fat, creamy beans.

How did he recommend cooking them? Throw them on the grill in the pods and grill until they are charred and shrunken - by this time the beans inside have steamed in the moisture from the pod. This cooking method prevents the older beans from developing the tough skin that forms when you cook them after shelling. We like to eat them straight from the grilled pod as an appetizer, but they also make wonderful salads, side dishes, and an alternative to hummus.

Serves 3-4.

Ingredients:

• 3 lb fava beans in their pods
• 2 scallions, minced
• 1 lemon
• 1 T fresh dill or 1 tsp dried dill
• 2 T olive oil
• salt & freshly ground pepper to taste

Method:

1. Grill or broil the pods until slightly charred and shrunken. When cool enough to handle, remove the beans from the pods.
2. While the beans are cooking, mince the zest from the lemon and squeeze out the juice.
3. Toss the beans with the remaining ingredients.

Variations:

• Serve the beans warm as a side dish or at room temperature as a salad.
• Toss the beans with pasta or grain as a side or main dish.
• Chop the mixture coarsely and serve on toasts or crackers for an hors d’oeuvre.
• Purée the beans after shelling, then mix in the remaining ingredients for a hummus-like dip or spread.

Do ahead:

• The beans can be prepared up to 48 h in advance—leave in the pod or shell, then refrigerate, tightly covered.
• The dish can be assembled up to 4 h in advance—if you leave it much longer, the acid in the lemon juice will turn the beans an olive green or brown.

Download Fava Beans

20 Hoops in 20 Days

No, we’re not talking basketball here, but something much more exciting: a fabulous local organization, SELMA Cafe, raises money and volunteers to help area farmers put up “hoop houses,” which are basically long plastic-covered greenhouses that enable the farmer to use passive solar energy to extend the growing season to 10-12 months of the year  – even here in Michigan!

On June 15, SELMA started a project to construct 20 of the houses for 20 different farms in 20 days. Most of our gang at Fair Food Network signed up for a team work day, and I decided to lend a hand in a more concrete way – not by sitting in the office working on food systems projects in the abstract but actually helping to build a hoop house. And so on day 1 of the project, we (including my 11-year old daughter – honest, teachers, it was a worthy, educational project!) found ourselves out in Stockbridge performing hard labor.

I wanted to share some photos of the day – not much else to say, except that it was truly inspiring to see the approximately 20 volunteers, led by builder-in-chief Jeff McCabe (who ought to write the Hoophouses for Dummies book), put this thing together. We had to leave before it was done, but K’s conclusion (again, sorry teachers!): “I learned much more today than I would have on the last Wednesday of the school year!”

How it looked at 9:00 am.

 

And how it looked when I had to leave at 2:45 pm - almost a hoophouse!

To view all the photos, go to my Facebook album.

Brining

For years now, I've been brining my Thanksgiving turkey before roasting it, but recently, I've started brining just about all animal proteins before broiling, searing, roasting, grilling, or smoking them - it basically improves anything cooked by a dry heat method. Brining serves many purposes, among them imparting flavor, retaining moisture, and improving tenderness. Brining takes a bit of planning ahead, but the results will be well worth it.

If soaking your fish/meat/poultry in salty water sounds odd or sends you into fits of concern about sodium intake, consider that just about any poultry, much of the fish, and most of the pre-marinated meats in the store are injected with saline solution that contains a lot of other chemicals you probably don't want to know about.

The most basic brine consists of 1 cup (yes, a cup) of salt dissolved in 1 gallon of water, which in home kitchen terms reduces to 1/4 c of salt to 1 quart of water or 2 T of salt per 2 c of water. This is all well and good, but pretty boring.

Here is my favorite brine recipe, which can be varied infinitely based on the flavors you want to impart - it makes enough to brine approximately 2 lbs of meat/fish/poultry:

• 2 c water
• 2 T kosher or sea salt (non-iodized, please - iodized will make your meat have a metallic flavor)
• 1 T maple syrup
• 3-5 juniper berries, crushed with the flat of a knife blade
• 3-5 peppercorns, crushed with the flat of a knife blade
• 1 bay leaf, crumbled
• fresh or dried herbs of choice: you can use entire sprigs of rosemary, thyme, sage, etc. - just crush them slightly in your hands
• 1 small dried chile pepper or 1/4 tsp chile flakes - optional

Combine the ingredients, stirring gently until the salt crystals are completely dissolved. Some cooks like to heat the brine, which speeds the salt dissolving and melds the flavors more quickly. If you do this, be sure to cool it to room temperature or lower before adding your meat. Place the meat in a non-reactive container - I prefer to use glass or stainless steel bowls, but food-grade plastic bags and containers are also usable - and add enough brine to cover completely. If your meat floats, weigh it down with a plate to submerge it completely. Brine for approximately 1 hour per pound, basing the calculation on the largest piece you are brining.

Remove the meat from the brine, pat it dry, and allow it to sit in the refrigerator for at least an hour before cooking - this ensures a better color on the outside and a crisper skin on poultry.

Smoke, grill, broil, or roast the meat as you normally would - you'll be impressed by the difference in flavor and texture!

Once you've tried out the basic brine, feel free to experiment: you can vary the liquid, the sweetener, and spices and herbs. Remember, though, if you add an acidic element to the liquid (wine, vinegar, fruit or fruit juice), your meat will be even more tenderized - overbrining in these liquids might result in grayish meat with a mushy rather than tender texture.

Fair Food

In recent months, a lot of activity at Fair Food Network, where I work, has focused on the publication of a book written by Oran Hesterman, our president/CEO. We launched the national book tour last Thursday in Ann Arbor, and so far the book has been met with a lot of enthusiasm and has garnered some great reviews (see Kirkus Reviews and this Kresge Foundation press release for 2 examples).

Where are YOU on your journey toward helping create a more sustainable, more equitable, fairer food system for our future generations: Just starting to think about buying more local food? Seriously into buying local, sustainable food? Involved in food systems change at the community level? Ready to influence the movement on a national scale?

Regardless of where you are on your food systems journey, I recommend this book as one that gives everyone practical steps to take to move us beyond what’s on our own plates and in our own refrigerators toward what we can do in our neighborhood, our greater community, and our country (and maybe even globally!) to make healthy, fresh food available to everyone now AND into the future.

Ready to get more involved?

• For a sneak peek at the content, see “Moving from Conscious Consumer to Engaged Citizen” on the Fair Food Network Blog.
• Find out whether Oran will be in your town on tour on the Fair Food book site and come hear him in person.
• Pick up or order the book at your favorite independent bookseller!

Once you've educated yourself about how broken the food system is (and as the Kresge release says, "that [book]’s been written – more than once"), you will begin to see the problems all around you, both in our nation and in the world (see "High, dry, and up against a wall"). Oran Hesterman's Fair Food: Growing a Healthy, Sustainable Food System for All will take you one step further and show you where to look for solutions AND how to become part of the solution.